"Every major food company now has an organic division. There's more capital going into organic agriculture than ever before"
About this Quote
Pollan’s line lands like a progress report that’s also a warning label. On the surface, it’s a simple observation: “organic” has gone mainstream, money is flowing, the category is booming. The subtext is where it bites. When every major food conglomerate has an organic division, “organic” stops being a countercultural corrective and starts functioning as a product line - a managed niche inside the same industrial logic it once opposed. The phrase “organic division” is corporate-speak with a quiet chill: values get bracketed into departments, disruption gets domesticated.
The second sentence sharpens the ambivalence. More capital sounds like victory, but Pollan is too careful to treat capital as neutral. Investment can scale better practices, expand access, and professionalize supply chains. It can also concentrate power, incentivize shortcuts, and shift organic from a farming philosophy into a compliance regime: meet the letter of certification while replicating monoculture, long-distance shipping, and labor exploitation. “More capital than ever before” is both celebratory and diagnostic - it signals that organic has proven profitable enough to attract the very institutions whose incentives helped create the problem organic promised to solve.
Context matters: Pollan’s broader project has been to map how the American food system launders moral language through marketing. This quote captures a hinge moment: organic’s success becomes its vulnerability. Once the giants arrive, the question isn’t whether organic grows. It’s who gets to define what “organic” means when growth is the primary metric.
The second sentence sharpens the ambivalence. More capital sounds like victory, but Pollan is too careful to treat capital as neutral. Investment can scale better practices, expand access, and professionalize supply chains. It can also concentrate power, incentivize shortcuts, and shift organic from a farming philosophy into a compliance regime: meet the letter of certification while replicating monoculture, long-distance shipping, and labor exploitation. “More capital than ever before” is both celebratory and diagnostic - it signals that organic has proven profitable enough to attract the very institutions whose incentives helped create the problem organic promised to solve.
Context matters: Pollan’s broader project has been to map how the American food system launders moral language through marketing. This quote captures a hinge moment: organic’s success becomes its vulnerability. Once the giants arrive, the question isn’t whether organic grows. It’s who gets to define what “organic” means when growth is the primary metric.
Quote Details
| Topic | Food |
|---|---|
| Source | Help us find the source |
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