"Something about glamour interested me. All my schoolbooks had drawings of women on terraces with a cocktail and a cigarette"
About this Quote
Glamour, for Bill Blass, isn’t a trait so much as a recruitment poster. The detail that matters is where he first encounters it: not on a runway or in a penthouse, but in schoolbooks. That’s a sly tell about how aspiration gets smuggled into people early, dressed up as “culture” and “taste” while quietly teaching a curriculum of class. A terrace, a cocktail, a cigarette: three props that signal leisure, adult permission, and the kind of effortless authority money buys. The women aren’t working, mothering, or rushing; they’re posed in a world that has already been arranged for them.
Blass’s line reads like a confession of origin story, but it’s also a critique of the image machine. Mid-century illustration sold an idea of femininity as composed spectacle, a lifestyle rendered in clean lines: chic, distant, slightly dangerous. The cigarette is doing extra work, marking sophistication and transgression at once, especially in a period when women smoking carried a charge of independence and performance. It’s not incidental that he remembers the drawings, not the text. Fashion, like advertising, lives in the visual: it trains desire through repetition.
As a designer who helped define American elegance, Blass is admitting that his taste was shaped by a fantasy of ease. The subtext is both wistful and knowing: glamour isn’t discovered, it’s taught. And once you’ve absorbed it, you spend a career trying to remake it in fabric.
Blass’s line reads like a confession of origin story, but it’s also a critique of the image machine. Mid-century illustration sold an idea of femininity as composed spectacle, a lifestyle rendered in clean lines: chic, distant, slightly dangerous. The cigarette is doing extra work, marking sophistication and transgression at once, especially in a period when women smoking carried a charge of independence and performance. It’s not incidental that he remembers the drawings, not the text. Fashion, like advertising, lives in the visual: it trains desire through repetition.
As a designer who helped define American elegance, Blass is admitting that his taste was shaped by a fantasy of ease. The subtext is both wistful and knowing: glamour isn’t discovered, it’s taught. And once you’ve absorbed it, you spend a career trying to remake it in fabric.
Quote Details
| Topic | Art |
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