"The New is not a fashion, it is a value"
About this Quote
Barthes draws a razor line between novelty as costume and novelty as ethic. “Fashion” is the polite insult here: the churn of surfaces that capitalism packages as change while keeping the underlying order intact. To call “the New” a “value” is to yank it out of trend cycles and plant it in the moral vocabulary of modernity, where it becomes a standard by which culture judges itself. The sentence works because it’s both rallying cry and accusation: if the New is merely fashionable, then our appetite for it is shallow; if it is a value, then our institutions are obligated to make room for rupture.
The subtext is classic Barthes. He spent his career exposing how “natural” meanings are manufactured - how bourgeois culture turns history into common sense. In that world, fashion is a semiotic trap: it promises freedom through choice while directing desire along pre-approved routes. By contrast, the New-as-value gestures toward a more radical possibility: novelty that alters the code, not just the outfit. It’s modernism with a conscience, insisting that innovation should do cultural work, not just provide cultural decoration.
Context matters: postwar France, mass media, advertising, and the growing sophistication of consumer signs. Barthes is arguing with a society that mistakes refreshed packaging for transformation. He’s also warning the avant-garde about its own vulnerability: the New can be absorbed, branded, and sold back as lifestyle. Calling it a value is a bid to keep it difficult, disruptive, and therefore real.
The subtext is classic Barthes. He spent his career exposing how “natural” meanings are manufactured - how bourgeois culture turns history into common sense. In that world, fashion is a semiotic trap: it promises freedom through choice while directing desire along pre-approved routes. By contrast, the New-as-value gestures toward a more radical possibility: novelty that alters the code, not just the outfit. It’s modernism with a conscience, insisting that innovation should do cultural work, not just provide cultural decoration.
Context matters: postwar France, mass media, advertising, and the growing sophistication of consumer signs. Barthes is arguing with a society that mistakes refreshed packaging for transformation. He’s also warning the avant-garde about its own vulnerability: the New can be absorbed, branded, and sold back as lifestyle. Calling it a value is a bid to keep it difficult, disruptive, and therefore real.
Quote Details
| Topic | Embrace Change |
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