"I have struck a city - a real city - and they call it Chicago... I urgently desire never to see it again. It is inhabited by savages"

Rudyard Kipling’s observations on Chicago combine astonishment with discomfort, offering a sharp critique of the city’s atmosphere at the turn of the 20th century. His exclamation about having “struck a city, a real city” reveals a sense of surprise, perhaps acknowledging both the scale and vitality of Chicago as he experienced it. For a British writer accustomed to European urban environments, Chicago’s raw energy and rapid growth stood in stark contrast to the ordered refinement of older cities. What sets his impression apart, however, is not only the recognition of the city’s authenticity but also the emotional reaction it triggers in him: a forceful wish never to return.

Kipling’s discomfort escalates in his characterization of Chicago as “inhabited by savages.” This loaded term, by today’s standards, is deeply problematic, reflecting colonial prejudices and a worldview shaped by imperial hierarchies. His disapproval stems less from specific incidents than from the city’s overall demeanor, which he presumably found too unruly, chaotic, or even threatening compared to his prior experiences. Chicago, in the late 19th century, was booming, an epicenter of immigration, industrialization, and social upheaval. Its vibrancy could be overwhelming, especially to visitors from more established parts of the world where hierarchy and tradition held firmer sway.

Kipling’s use of the word “savages” not only betrays these prejudices but also points to a deeper unease with the unfamiliar. He found the dynamic, diverse, and often rough-edged life of Chicago unsettling, embodying both an impressive testament to American ambition and a distressing departure from European civility. Thus, his reaction encapsulates a broader tension at the time between the old world and the new, civilization and perceived chaos, order and energy. Underlying his criticism is an inability, or unwillingness, to appreciate a different kind of urban vitality, one forged out of diversity, struggle, and relentless change.