"The food in such places is so tasteless because the members associate spices and garlic with just the sort of people they're trying to keep out"

This quote by Calvin Trillin is referring to the exemption of particular people from specific locations. He is suggesting that the food in these locations is unappetizing due to the fact that the members of these locations associate spices and garlic with individuals they are attempting to keep out. This indicates that the members of these places are attempting to stay out individuals who are different from them, and they are using the food as a way to do this. By not using spices and garlic, they are creating an unsavory food that is not attracting individuals they are trying to keep out. This quote is a commentary on the exclusion of certain individuals from particular locations, and how this exemption is perpetuated through the food that is served. It is a suggestion that food can be used as a tool to omit individuals, which this exemption can have an enduring influence on individuals who are excluded.